me, i think i could be in paris indefinitely but we just had a few days here. not sad about that because i know i'll be back again and again.i'm not going to drone on [for once] about my experience as if it's any more significant than yours is or was or could be. everyone's trip to paris is going to be different.
i'm just going to offer some tidbits about what you might consider if you ever feel like being a reckless wastrel and boozehound while in paris. it could happen to you. it happened to me and my girlfriends last fall. some would say i abused my time in paris because by day i treated it as a shopping mall and by night a club. perhaps i should be embarrassed to admit it but i'm not gonna be because i do lots of other things more worthy of embarrassment.
firstly, if you're to behave like this, it matters not so much how luxurious your hotel. romance isn't in the equation [to your knowledge] so stay somewhere in a great location, close to the action that's not too pricey (a sweet boutique hotel - not in faubourg st-honore or champs-elysees, but relatively near to one of the two, which btw can be accessed quickly by taxi from anywhere or jump on the very clean metrorail). this allows you to focus spending on other things like clothes and cuisine. and, get ready btw to spend your arse off on coffee. unless you don't drink it and if you don't, well i'm truly sorry about that, ya weirdo.
what we decided to do last fall was play it by ear. yep, you heard me. save for one of my friend's magazine clippings on where to dine [a la gwyneth paltrow and the like] we didn't have much of a plan. we had one reservation for thanksgiving night at chez dumonet. i have read about their sketchy wine operation [bringing the bottle you ordered already decanted to your table] as well as their unfriendliness to americans. i didn't experience that at all, however and perhaps it's because i could understand the french menu - it is tres francais this spot, that's the only thing i feel i need to warn you of. if you can't read french food, you may be screwed.
hey, another poem.
i had the pigeon [that's french for squab, don't be alarmed]. it was tadiefor. all caps. can you see that sauce? like satin. we were absolutely thrilled with our time here. and as a side note [to me, not to them] i invited a guy from highschool who i hadn't seen in xx years because i knew he was working in paris over the holiday. turns out he and my bestie developed a romance still in existence to this very day. good for them. onward.
so chez dumonet was our only reservation on the trip. i suggest that you make one good one but beyond that it's fun to not have a godforsaken plan of action at every moment of every day, if you're asking me. desserts included the traditional paris brest and a souffle bigger than my arse. which is small, but the souffle was big, trust me.
otherwise, for the wheres to go, we enlisted the brilliant help of concierge services at the nice hotels we weren't staying in. porquoi pas? all you have to do is smile, be polite and tip. being a girl probably doesn't hurt. they're happy to help, that's what they do.
one night we headed to the supersmall and quiet bar hemingway at the ritz. i highly recommend you treat yourself to this some day. as you well know, my "some day" is usually right now if i want something. all cocktails are 30 euro. minimum. once you get past that alarming fact, settle in to your club chair and peruse a very small menu of cocktails. yummy. try to drink slowly because the ever so tiniest amount of guilt is running traces through your brain. squash it with another drink though. you'll be fine. and enjoying cocktails in a bar wholly dedicated to papa is worth every penny. the bar across the hall is more euro-mod but still fairly cool. we had a bottle of champers over there and it's fantastic people-watching. at the time i also re-engaged my princess diana obsession, imagining where they entered and exited in those still video shots we all saw.
on the way out we popped over to concierge who happily called ahead to new st germaine hotspot, la societe, to reserve us a table. we enjoyed several appetizers and a chocolate fondant cake. i highly recommend this coolcat locale both for the ambience and the well done food [it's swanky, high-fashioned and reserved but feels like it could turn into a raging party at any moment]. i have, btw, recommended it to even the pickiest and they weren't disappointed.
we got a little crazier later that night at a bar situated around the corner which i can't recall the name of but it's directly across from louis vuitton. innocent-looking by day, the late-night downstairs dance party is not for the timid. note: don't get into taxis headed to an after-after party at 4 am with boys you don't know. your mama tells you this your entire life and you should listen. in this case, i was safe but they had no money to pay for the taxi so i kicked their cheapasses out and mosied home alone.
on the next night we opted for the other uber-lux hotel, georges v. four seasons. an absolutely stunning decor for the holiday season.
sitting in [another club chair] the lounge we ordered a bottle of champers - 120 euro, not too bad. seriously between three of us, that's really good. and you get limitless free nuts. beware though, those nuts are salty and you want to order more cocktails. they're not stupid over there at georges v. here's where we got some really good gouge [military word for 411] on where to go.
they gave us great info. here's a card for a swank new spot [new at the time, perhaps defunct now, who knows], le prescription. really kickass bar and lounge at which you might spot paris or lilo partying. small dogs are allowed. the backside of this card featured another rec, l'alcazar, exclusive little speakeasy lounge up the street (rue mazarine) with gourmet cocktails and sofas. we enjoyed both spots and even a late night breakfast at a bistro we stumbled past.
what else? well nothing too touristy, except riding that rockin ferris wheel in montmartre. again, why not? we hung out in montmartre for the day, eating a really $hitty lunch at a spot run by brits, no offense. steer clear of this joint if you happen upon it. not good. and for the love of all bohemian artists, do not order the steak tartare or get a bloody mary to attempt curing your pounding headache. they haven't a clue what they're doing there.i purchased two antique advertisements at a shop in montmartre. one, an old chanel ad from 1941, limited edition and another hermes ad poster, circa the 30's. sadly i put them down at an atm and like a huge jackass left them there. i went back to retrieve but they were long gone. still sad about that.
we really shopped our tails off too. in all the names you've heard and some you haven't. note: when asking for directions to prada, it helps if you pronouce it 'pwada'. r's are different in fwance. i purchased a puffer jacket from the moncler store, $200 cheaper than i found in georgetown. lucky girl. and a couple of bracelets at barbara bui. bad but not too bad, considering we were in hermes and missoni among the many other places i could have dropped my savings.
that was our trip for the most part. lots of coffees in between. lots of walking around. and a ton of wine and champagne. i sure wish you could grab a taxi more easily in paris, but beyond that i can't wait to get back there. perhaps i'll visit a museum next trip or even a michelin-starred.
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